I love traveling around China so much that I’ve been to Huashan Mountain twice.

Yep, twice!

So, I can confidently fill you in on what you need to know.

From choosing the best cable car to avoiding the worst food, here are my top tips for climbing the mighty Mount Hua in Shaanxi province.

It truly is one of the great mountains of China.

1. Get the train there

Huashan North high-speed train station

Hua Shan North high-speed train station. Image supplied by Mike Cairnduff.

Are you coming from Xi’an?

Then definitely don’t get the bus or a private car. It will take significantly more time with China’s traffic, and in the case of a car, cost a hell of a lot more.

Huashan Mountain is only 30 minutes from Xi’an by bullet train.

So, if you’re staying in Xi’an, just catch the Metro to Xi’an North and change there. You’ll need a ticket to Huashan North.

A taxi or Didi (China’s Uber) from Huashan North will cost around 25 yuan (US$3) to the town of Huayin.

This is the little city that has sprung up near the base of the mountain to cater to the hordes of tourists that come here daily.

Huayin still has a ‘slow train’ station too, if you happen to be arriving from an off-the-beaten path Chinese city.

2. Expect lots of people

tourists climbing down narrow steps at Huashan

I love how this photo shows how busy it can get up on the mountain. Image supplied by Mike Cairnduff.

The Chinese adore Huashan.

It’s very special to them because it’s a sacred mountain according to Taoism. So, expect lots of excited people.

To be honest, there are virtually no tourist attractions in the big cities in China that don’t see a lot of people.

But the good thing about Huashan is that there are actually five main mountains (north, south, east, west, and middle peak), so people are fairly spread out.

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Most foot traffic is at the top of the north and west mountains.

This is where the cable car stations are, which makes sense as the Chinese generally don’t like hiking. You’re bound to see a few women up there in heels!

Fun fact: Huashan Mountain is also known as Hua Shan or Mount Hua in English. The ‘shan’ means mountain in Chinese, so technically when you say ‘Huashan Mountain’ in English you’re saying ‘mountain’ twice.

3. Take the easy route

stunning view from inside the Huashan West Peak cable car

The views are stunning from inside the West Peak cable car. Image supplied by Mike Cairnduff.

Most people take the easiest, most scenic route they can.

It goes like this:

  • From the main tourist center, take the shuttle bus to North Mountain – 20 minutes
  • Take the cable car up North Mountain – 10 minutes
  • Hike from North Mountain to West Mountain (about 3,000 concrete steps) – 90 minutes
  • Take the cable car down West Mountain, then shuttle bus to the tourist center – 15 minutes

Or, you can do this in the reverse order.

Note that the timings are approximate, and you’ve got to allow time for exploring the mountain peaks, eating, and taking photos, etc.

Fun fact: Because Huashan has been a revered and sacred place since ancient times, all the little places along the way have special names like Black Dragon Ridge, Heavenly Stairs, and Heavenly Southern Gate.

4. Take the harder route

steep and dangerous stairs hiking up Huashan Mountain North Peak

Don’t look down! Image supplied by Mike Cairnduff.

If you love hiking, and you have the time, you could do what I did.

Instead of taking the bus from the main tourist center to the North Mountain cable car station, I took it to the Yuquan Temple. This is at the base of the mountain range, known as West Gate.

(The budget hotel I stayed at dropped me off at the free shuttle bus station. Yay.)

From there, you hike approximately 3,800 steps to reach the top of North Mountain.

Here’s the route, with approximate timings:

  • From the main tourist center, take the shuttle bus to Yuquan Temple – 10 minutes
  • Hike up North Mountain for 6 km (3.7 mi) – 3 hours non-stop
  • Have a rest at the top (there’s a coffee shop with big comfy chairs) – 30 minutes
  • Hike from North Mountain to West Mountain – 1 hour
  • Take the cable car down West Mountain – 15 minutes
  • Take the shuttle bus to the tourist center – 30 minutes

The hike is good but it’s also quite tough.

The first third of the trail is basically a concreted incline, before it gets into some insanely steep steps. There are iron chain handrails for safety.

On my last trip to Huashan Mountain, in November 2023, I wasn’t feeling 100% body-wise. I’d fallen off my bike just a few days earlier.

So to be honest, I had back spasms in those first few hours.

The next morning though, I woke up feeling amazing! The hard exercise was exactly what my body needed.

If you’re unfit or overweight, this is absolutely not the route for you. Just take the cable cars. You’re going to have to walk a bit at the top anyway.

There are other routes too, involving South Peak and East Peak. There is no single ‘Huashan trail’ as such.

It all depends on how much time (and energy) you have.

Just don’t underestimate the steepness of Huashan Mountain. The steps are all different sizes, and many are very, very steep.

You’ll probably do what I did and use the chains to help hoist you up some of the stairs.

5. Spend at least a day

meeting Chinese friends while hiking Huashan

People will stop along the way to say hello and practice their English. Image supplied by Mike Cairnduff.

You could possibly get an early train from Xi’an and head straight to the mountain, and get back to Xi’an at night time.

But in my opinion, it would be super-rushed and probably not enough time.

Although the buses from the tourist center take you to your starting point (i.e. cable car or hiking trail), you still have to consider the waiting time and lining up for tickets.

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On my most recent trip, I stayed two nights, and it was ideal.

Here’s what I did:

  • Arrived by bullet train in the late afternoon
  • Took a taxi to my hotel and checked in
  • Woke up early to kind of beat the crowds, and get to the mountain at around 8am
  • Got back to the hotel around 5pm (via Tourist Alley for an early dinner, which I talk about further down)
  • Checked out of the hotel the next day, and headed to the train station.

If I go back to Huashan a third time, I’d do exactly the same thing. It was a perfect plan.

6. Budget for 300 to 400 yuan

chinese man holding red good luck sign at top of mountain

I blew the budget and bought an engraved lock and ribbon for good luck. Image supplied by Mike Cairnduff.

Generally speaking, China is a cheap-ish overseas destination for American and European travelers.

But the costs at popular tourist attractions do add up.

Chinese attractions are notorious for having complicated ticketing systems, with lots of packages, options, and add-ons. Huashan is no exception.

(In Australia, where I’m from, you would simply choose an adult, student or child ticket!)

Here are the costs for the ‘harder’ route that I took:

  • Shuttle bus from tourist center to base of mountain: Free
  • Park entrance fee to hike up to North Peak: 160 yuan (US$22)
  • Cable car to go down West Peak: 140 yuan (US$19)
  • Bus from cable car station to tourist center: 40 yuan (US$5)

So, all up it was 340 yuan or about US$47, though the cable car is slightly cheaper in the winter months.

Don’t want to hike up? The West Peak return cable car is 280 yuan (US$38).

You also need to factor in food and drink, which is much more expensive up on the top of the mountain.

I had a hot vegie pancake (15 yuan/US$2) part-way up the hiking trail and a cup of coffee (38 yuan/US$5) on the North Peak.

However, I brought my own snacks and water. This was a pretty good plan.

If you’re on a tight budget, take the North Peak cable car instead. The trip is shorter, but the cable car is older and the view isn’t as good.

North Peak cable car costs are as follows:

  • One way: 80 yuan (US$11)
  • Round trip: 150 yuan (US$21)

It costs less in winter if you’re brave enough to go at that time.

North Peak is also closer to the tourist center, so the bus ride is cheaper too (20 yuan or US$3 for a one-way trip).

7. Stay at an inn

Moji Nine Rooms Hotel at Huashan Mountain

The cheap and cheerful hotel I stayed at. Image supplied by Mike Cairnduff.

Speaking of money, staying at a Chinese inn is definitely worth considering.

It’s an experience that’s very different to staying in a big, lifeless hotel chain.

Chinese inns are often run by a family, so there’s a much more personal feel. At Huashan Mountain, I stayed at the Moji Nine Rooms Hotel.

The husband-and-wife duo were super friendly. The guy had a constant smile on his face.

They will drive you in their own car to the tourist center ticket office, the city center, or even to the train station.

They even give you gloves for the hike, and I was offered fresh persimmons too.

Bloody amazing!

Chinese inns are quite basic though, so don’t expect too much from the Moji Nine Rooms Hotel.

It’s also noisy, but that’s all part of the Chinese accommodation experience.

8. Do the Plank Walk

plank walk hua shan

A tourist getting strapped in for the Plank Walk. Image supplied by Ashley Jansen.

There’s an optional ‘attraction’ at Huashan Mountain called the Plank Walk in the Sky.

You’ll need to be a bit of a daredevil to take it on, but it’s worth the risk (says me who hasn’t done it!).

Basically, you’re harnessed onto the mountain and you shuffle along a narrow path made of wooden planks for about 100 m (330 ft).

The views of the precipitous cliffs all around you are breathtaking, if you’re game to look.

This plank road has given Huashan the reputation as being “the world’s most dangerous hike”. But it’s not really – you’re strapped in.

You can check out Ashley Jansen’s guide to the Mount Huashan Plank Walk for more on this nail-biting experience.

Top tip: The separate peaks at Huashan can confuse people. If you’re adamant on doing the Plank Walk, take the West Peak cable car in the morning (to avoid the crowds) and then follow the signs.

9. Head into the city for better food

prawn and leek dumplings held by chopsticks

Delicious prawn and leek dumplings from a local restaurant. Image supplied by Mike Cairnduff.

At the end of the day, you’ll be famished.

The restaurants in and around the main tourist center are average and overpriced.

That’s why I recommend going into Huayin City where the locals eat. I did this the night before the hike, and the food was amazing.

I had dumplings that were assembled before my very eyes. They were definitely up there with some of the best dumplings I’ve ever had in China, and that’s saying something.

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The day I left Hua Shan, I went back to the same dumpling restaurant for lunch! I couldn’t get enough.

By the way, when I say head into Huayin City, it’s only about a 20-minute walk from the tourist center. Your hotel might even be in Huayin City.

The Moji Nine Rooms Hotel is about a 30-minute walk, or the boss can you drive you there.

10. See the sunrise or sunset

distressed tourist in fog at Huashan

Check the weather before you go. Image supplied by Mike Cairnduff.

This is quite popular with the domestic Chinese tourists.

However, it’s something I haven’t wanted to do on either of my trips to Huashan Mountain. I’d rather see the natural vista and magnificent view during the daytime.

You need to stay at one of the inns on top of the actual mountain.

You’ve also got to wake up super-early to get to the best vantage point for sunrise. The time the sun rises changes depending on the season, but it’s roughly around 6 am.

Another option is heading up the mountain in the afternoon, and sticking around for sunset.

Just note that the cable cars stop at 8 pm, so you’d have to stay overnight on the mountain.

Psst! A quick travel tip

I always remind people who visit China to get a virtual private network (VPN).

Without this handy little app, you won’t be able to access all the major foreign websites and apps when using hotel Wi-Fi.

(You can see all the apps banned in China here.)

Please refer to my review about the best VPN for China to make sure the one you choose works in the country.

Otherwise, if you’re ready now, tap on the button below for the one I recommend and use in China myself.

Just make sure you download the VPN before you arrive in China, as you won’t be able to access the VPN’s website once you’re there.

Plan your trip to Huashan Mountain

Huashan Mountain in the background; lucky red flags and padlocks in foreground

Huashan Mountain is spectacular from every angle. Image supplied by Mike Cairnduff.

No matter which route you take, it’s best to plan your trip.

Don’t want to do much walking, or you’re unfit? Take one of the cable cars both ways.

Want to hike up and work those leg and butt muscles? Then start early, pack your backpack with snacks and water, and take the cable car down when you run out of energy.

I recommend an overnight stay minimum at Huashan Mountain so you don’t feel rushed.

It’s such a nice feeling going back to your hotel where you can have a rest and put your feet up. You could even indulge in a foot massage.

I hope you have a great time!

Next, keep scrolling down for FAQs about Mount Huashan or read my article on tipping in China. I think you’ll find it useful!

Note: Currency conversions are approximate and rounded to the nearest dollar. Main image credit: Supplied by Mike Cairnduff.

FAQ about Huashan Mountain in China

How long does it take to hike Huashan Mountain?

It took me 3 hours non-stop to get from the bottom to the top of North Peak, but the suggested time is 4 hours with breaks. You can then spend time hiking to the other mountains (there are five peaks), so allow a full day if you want to see everything.

Why is Mount Huashan famous?

It’s the steepest mountain in China and some of the pathways are treacherous. It’s also one of the most stunning, with granite rock, rugged cliffs and deep valleys.

How many people died in Huashan?

I’ve been told by an ex-policeman in China that about 20 people die here each year. I have a sneaking suspicion that they take their own life rather than slip and fall.

Is Mount Huashan a dangerous climb?

Not really, it’s just got a bad reputation because of the infamous plank walk. There are iron chains to help you climb the steepest sections.

How long is the plank walk in Huashan?

It’s 100 m (330 ft) long and takes about 15 minutes because you’re on a harness as you traverse the thin planks.

How much does it cost to hike Mount Huashan?

Allow between 300 and 400 yuan, depending on the route you choose and if you want to do any add-ons such as the Plank Walk.

How do I get to Huashan Mountain?

The easiest and best way is to catch one of the high speed trains from Xi’an Bei (North) Station to Huashan Bei (North) Station, which takes about 30 minutes. Then, take a 10-minute taxi ride to your hotel (or visitor center if you’re all set to start the climb).

When is the best time to visit Huashan Mountain?

I recommend going in spring or fall (on a weekday) when the weather is most pleasant and the crowds aren’t too crazy. Peak season is summer during the school holidays. I suggest avoiding Mt. Huashan in the winter months as it’s extremely chilly and temperatures can drop below zero.